2011年5月16日月曜日

Lessons from Edo

One fundamental thing that has not change since the Edo period is the presence of a shopping culture. Granted, shops as well as people appear to look different now but the "arcade-like shopping street"(116) that Brown refers to still exists in modern central Tokyo today. 




Similar to Edo's commercially active population back then, one can see the presence of a "marketplace" (121) in Ueno, especially the Ameyokocho arcade. What I mean this "marketplace" comprises of essentially two things: the shops and the customers. How the two interact in this "marketplace" can be seen in the example of my research site, "Mode Off". Edo sellers' open touting of wares to customers may translate into modern Tokyo shopkeepers employing less direct methods of promotion, such as making constant reminders in the form of announcements throughout the store. This happens regularly in your average shopping malls. It also happens all the time in Mode Off. 


In today's society, however, due to the competitiveness of the industry, hard sell is often not enough to garner consumers and prolonged consumer support. Among other things, branding and marketing are also important to reinforce the regular customer's choice in shopping at a particular store, as well as to actively promote to new customers about the benefits of shopping there. A typical announcement from Mode Off goes like this: "Thank you very much for shopping in our store. Today, we have 'new' spring wear on display, so please take a look. Again, if you have any items [to sell], we are happy to buy it from you." Like in the shopping culture in Edo as described in Brown's book, the consumer culture in modern Tokyo is a massive market that can be considered not simply a source of income (although that is a big part of it), but a life experience in the people's minds. And this comes alive in the small space of the first floor of Mode Off, where there is selling, buying and advertising all rolled into one. 


In fact, used-clothes dealers should not be new to modern Tokyo. According to Brown, used clothes shops abound in Edo as people rarely bought new clothes. They typically sold their old clothes in exchange for a refurbished one. This system is somewhat encouraged in Mode Off as the customer browses the items in the store while waiting to be called up regarding the items he/she has just sold. (If you're unfamiliar with the buying process, please read the previous post). Thus, by the time he/she is called up, he/she may have found a 'new' item to replace the one(s) he/she has just sold. If you were wondering, yes, I did spot more than one young man shopping at Mode Off for himself, not just housewives buying for themselves or their families. In this respect, the customer base has not changed much since the Edo period - men are unashamed in the act of shopping for themselves, which is a very good thing.


Of course, there are quite a few differences between the shopping experience in Edo and that of modern Tokyo. The first is: what can we do with clothes which are no longer usable (because they are too old or torn etc)? Can we use it for other purposes like during the Edo period instead of throwing them away? This is interesting to think about because the fuel option obviously no longer exists for us. So the question is, what's next for these clothes? Well, there are a few options we can think of in today's society such as revamping them to be used for other purposes. More ideas can be found here: http://ecolocalizer.com/2010/11/16/10-ways-to-recycle-clothes-3-recycled-clothes-purchasing-options-america-recycles-week/  




The second thing we can and should learn from Edo is: how can we better design clothes in a way that can minimize harm done to the environment and maximize recyclability? Currently, these options are present but are usually expensive and inaccessible to the average shopper. So the real question is: can clothes with good designs made of sustainable material be affordable? Examples of sustainable material are: sustainable cotton, hemp and bamboo. (See: http://earth911.com/recycling/household/clothing-and-textile/tips-for-recycling-clothes/)


From Brown's book (180-1), we learnt that the basic garments are shared among all classes so this not only facilitates production but recyclability as well. Now, as repulsive as it seems to have us all wear exactly the same undershirts all the time, is it possible for a certain commonality in basic design and material?  




The last difference that I want to raise, which is arguably the most important, is: How can we change consumers' attitudes towards clothes and their relationship with the environment? This is essential because ultimately, when and if clothes of good designs and sustainable material are put on the shelves, without support from the masses, it would all be a waste. People during the Edo period have been described in Brown's book as naturally saving energy and costs, and constantly thinking of the environment in their every move. In modern Tokyo, people do think about the environment in terms of household waste and living costs, but they may carry a different standard when it comes to clothes and personal items. Can this gradually change more in terms of knowing more about how we can do our part as consumers? (See: http://www.natural-living-for-women.com/eco-friendly-fashion.html) 


I know it seems like there are more questions than answers here, but believe me, I'm trying to know more things and in the process, I've enjoyed researching for this post. Until I get some more answers (and questions), this will be all from me now.

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